Ten Sleep Part 2.......

                                                                     He Biggum 13d

I havent wrote up in a bit but recently I jsut got back from part two of my Ten Sleep summer.



Galactic Emporor 14a



He Biggum 13d

For the past week and a half I spent my time (again) in Ten Sleep Canyon, Wyoming with my friend Cedar Wright. For the first 4 days of our trip we met up with Matt Segal and John Dickey but for this duration of the trip (the first 4 days) i managed to fall all over my project, He Biggum,(13d) making negative progress. So both Cedar and I were flailing on our projects, his being Hellion (13c) witch i did last trip, decided to make a change of pace and we went to bolt a climb. The climb that we bolted was in the same general area of both our projects witch means that we could inform people about it easily and in the end our climb got over 7 Ascents!!! We decided to name the climb Where's Wentworth, because previously on the trip i lost my dog Wentworth for 4 hours because he got scared of some fire works in the morning and climbed in to Matt Segals van. Then when we thought he was dead, Matt opened his van and......THERE WAS WENTWORTH!

                                                                     F'd in the A 14a

Now back to the climb, the line we bolted was vertical on immaculate black stone for the first section witch involved five star movement off all kinds of holds such as knobs, pockets, crimps, slopers and slots. Then the climb went on for another 50 feet through less bullet stone but easier terrain. Boiling it all down the line rang in at around 12b. later when we finished bolting my psyche was still there but the drill battery was low so i decided to hop on my proj, He Biggum. I roped up and fell at the first bolt. lowered to the ground and pulled my way through to the top. Finally it was over...but the reason it was so hard was that every move was extremely low percentage, being that every move was a massive pull of no feet to a pocket. I was glad to be done with that project but eagar and ready for the next. But with no luck for the next few days i got on a continuous 14a called F'ed in the A, i managed to pull it off in two falls but this climb we unusually sharp so I decided to move my efforts to the immaculate stone of the French Cattle Ranch's ultra classic 13d called sky pilot.



Best 5.10 im America



On my first effort i nearly got through the vicious v9 crux at the start then dogged my way to the top. On my next go I pulled hard all the way to the bitter end and ended up falling off the VERY LAST MOVE!!! Disappointed from falling off the top I restrained from trying it any more today, for we were to be headed back the next to let everyone try there FCR projects again. The next day when we went up a huge group of boulderites showed up and hiked up to the French cattle ranch with us. This group including Nellie, cedars fiance, my Dad, Matt Segal and John Dickey again and a bunch of others. When we arrived i warmed up and hoped of Sky pilot. To my astonishment, I pulled through the bouldery start and found my self clipping the chains of sky pilot but i brought up three extra draws just in case i wanted to try the extension with is Galactic Emperor (14a). And the momentum just kept pushing me to the send.

Then the trip was over, the drive home was long and boaring. Then life continues, without rock climbing. Untill the next weekend.

TEN SLEEEEPPYY, and some mini dog lovin.

This past week i traveled to the humble little/mega climbing area of Ten Sleep, Wyoming. I ventured over to Ten Sleep with my friend Cedar Wright and a posse of mini dogs who are Nemo, the miniature Yorkshire  terrier, Wentworth, the careen terrier, and Gus, the pug. After the not very exiting 7 hour drive from Boulder, we were overly ready for some good ol' rock grippin. Rolling in to camp at around 9, i set up my tent and Cedar who just (the previous day) got a pimpin new Man van(mini van), plopped down on his bed and that was night night for everyone. Waking up at around 10 the next morning with baggy eyes, i had nothing on my mind but......breakfast. that consisted of a delicious muffin and a cliff bar.......mmmm. The temp was a little cooler than we thought when we finally got to the crag at around 12, when it gets in the shade. And by a little cooler, i mean mind numbing fingers where you can't feel the rock. After our horrible warm up in the cold we ventured over to a 5 star 12d called pussytoes, later in the trip we learned that almost every climb in Aaron Hueys guide book is 5 stars......but some are not that great. pussytoes consists of a v5/6 crimper boulder problem to the first bolt then 12b climbing to the top went fast after boching the beta the first go then sending the next. Cedar on the other hand just got back from killing it in in indian creek where he did 2 13as 2 try there......that is baller for trad. so he was wiped and his fingers crushed from the finger cracks had a hard time on the crimpy boulder prob at the start. later in the day we headed over to a 13c called the hellion. After doging my way up to put the draws on it i managed to redpoint this (actually) 5 star piece of stone 2nd go. Cedar decided he was going to rest his fingers today so he just belayed me.

Day 2: Today we went to one of the best crags in the area, the Slavery wall. this was holds dozens of 5 star climbs ranging from10d -14a. Today was much warmed than the first so we warmed up on the steepest line on the wall witch happens to be a 10d then cruised over to a sanbaged 12d called crown prince abdulla. cedar sent second go and i had previously done the climb last year. Then we cruised down the wall to a 13a called the burden of immortality. And beyond my hopes i managed to flash it. Finishing up the day on a high note we headed back to camp for a delicious chili mac dinner.

Day 3: The previous night a young kid named Billy came rolling up into our camp sight and plopped down next to us by our fire. Billy came up to ten sleep from Alabama for a TWO MONTH trip hear. And for the first three weeks he was going to be hear solo. So we invited him to climb with us tomorrow. Cedar later in the night he decided his fingers were still thrashed from indian creek so he was going to rest. That ment i was going out rock climbing with this kid from Alabama that i just meet....sweet. Actually he turned out to be not to bad, so we warmed up and then headed to this new area to the left of the slavery wall called the Downtown. I decided to try this new 13b that was put up last year. The climb was called shaker and was very ten sleep like, with two finger pockets on bullet rock as far as the eye could see. But unlike ten sleep, this climb was very Sporty and a little run out. So....getting the draws  up was a little bit of a challenge, but after working the moves, i managed to pull it together and send second go. I was psyched, for that was one of the coolest lines i have ever gotten on in ten sleep because for some reason the movement was soooo cool with iron crosses, huge lunges and balency crimps this climb is a insta classic.

Day 4: Today was gona be my rest day but i made the mistake of bringing all of my stuff up to the crag even tho i was planning on only shooting video. So that is what i ended up doing was going up a 14a to the left of the burden of immortality and shooting video of Cedar on it. So when i was on the climb hanging for around three hours on the climb but i got some sweet video footage and i dont think it was too bad for my first shoot. but wile hanging i was looking at the 14a and it looked impossible but a link up between the Burden and the 14a looked sweet that was called the Burden of my member 13c. When i got back to the ground from shooting, i got on my shoes to try the burden of my member. And agents all odds i managed to flash it!! But it wasn't pretty, i almost fell of pretty much every move up top. Lowering down with a smile on my face, for that was by far my hardest flash my "rest" day was over.

Day 5: Actual rest day in town, with a food stop, McDonnell's, and a oil change that day was over.

Day 6...the last day: For our last day we went back to where we went the first, the supererratic wall. My goal for the day was to climb the Incredible horse cock 13d. After warming up i jumped on it and well....it felt hard. and for my next try, i sent! Baring through the hard boulder problem at the start and hanging on for dear life at the top i surprised my self when i was clipping the chains. later that day i got on a climb to the right called HE BUIGGUM FUCKED 14a and did it in one fall....then the rain came and we had to run out. And drive home.....so there it is, the story of my Ten sleep experience.