Friday, June 10, 2011

TEN SLEEEEPPYY, and some mini dog lovin.


This past week i traveled to the humble little/mega climbing area of Ten Sleep, Wyoming. I ventured over to Ten Sleep with my friend Cedar Wright and a posse of mini dogs who are Nemo, the miniature Yorkshire  terrier, Wentworth, the careen terrier, and Gus, the pug. After the not very exiting 7 hour drive from Boulder, we were overly ready for some good ol' rock grippin. Rolling in to camp at around 9, i set up my tent and Cedar who just (the previous day) got a pimpin new Man van(mini van), plopped down on his bed and that was night night for everyone. Waking up at around 10 the next morning with baggy eyes, i had nothing on my mind but......breakfast. that consisted of a delicious muffin and a cliff bar.......mmmm. The temp was a little cooler than we thought when we finally got to the crag at around 12, when it gets in the shade. And by a little cooler, i mean mind numbing fingers where you can't feel the rock. After our horrible warm up in the cold we ventured over to a 5 star 12d called pussytoes, later in the trip we learned that almost every climb in Aaron Hueys guide book is 5 stars......but some are not that great. pussytoes consists of a v5/6 crimper boulder problem to the first bolt then 12b climbing to the top went fast after boching the beta the first go then sending the next. Cedar on the other hand just got back from killing it in in indian creek where he did 2 13as 2 try there......that is baller for trad. so he was wiped and his fingers crushed from the finger cracks had a hard time on the crimpy boulder prob at the start. later in the day we headed over to a 13c called the hellion. After doging my way up to put the draws on it i managed to redpoint this (actually) 5 star piece of stone 2nd go. Cedar decided he was going to rest his fingers today so he just belayed me.

Day 2: Today we went to one of the best crags in the area, the Slavery wall. this was holds dozens of 5 star climbs ranging from10d -14a. Today was much warmed than the first so we warmed up on the steepest line on the wall witch happens to be a 10d then cruised over to a sanbaged 12d called crown prince abdulla. cedar sent second go and i had previously done the climb last year. Then we cruised down the wall to a 13a called the burden of immortality. And beyond my hopes i managed to flash it. Finishing up the day on a high note we headed back to camp for a delicious chili mac dinner.

Day 3: The previous night a young kid named Billy came rolling up into our camp sight and plopped down next to us by our fire. Billy came up to ten sleep from Alabama for a TWO MONTH trip hear. And for the first three weeks he was going to be hear solo. So we invited him to climb with us tomorrow. Cedar later in the night he decided his fingers were still thrashed from indian creek so he was going to rest. That ment i was going out rock climbing with this kid from Alabama that i just meet....sweet. Actually he turned out to be not to bad, so we warmed up and then headed to this new area to the left of the slavery wall called the Downtown. I decided to try this new 13b that was put up last year. The climb was called shaker and was very ten sleep like, with two finger pockets on bullet rock as far as the eye could see. But unlike ten sleep, this climb was very Sporty and a little run out. So....getting the draws  up was a little bit of a challenge, but after working the moves, i managed to pull it together and send second go. I was psyched, for that was one of the coolest lines i have ever gotten on in ten sleep because for some reason the movement was soooo cool with iron crosses, huge lunges and balency crimps this climb is a insta classic.

Day 4: Today was gona be my rest day but i made the mistake of bringing all of my stuff up to the crag even tho i was planning on only shooting video. So that is what i ended up doing was going up a 14a to the left of the burden of immortality and shooting video of Cedar on it. So when i was on the climb hanging for around three hours on the climb but i got some sweet video footage and i dont think it was too bad for my first shoot. but wile hanging i was looking at the 14a and it looked impossible but a link up between the Burden and the 14a looked sweet that was called the Burden of my member 13c. When i got back to the ground from shooting, i got on my shoes to try the burden of my member. And agents all odds i managed to flash it!! But it wasn't pretty, i almost fell of pretty much every move up top. Lowering down with a smile on my face, for that was by far my hardest flash my "rest" day was over.

Day 5: Actual rest day in town, with a food stop, McDonnell's, and a oil change that day was over.

Day 6...the last day: For our last day we went back to where we went the first, the supererratic wall. My goal for the day was to climb the Incredible horse cock 13d. After warming up i jumped on it and well....it felt hard. and for my next try, i sent! Baring through the hard boulder problem at the start and hanging on for dear life at the top i surprised my self when i was clipping the chains. later that day i got on a climb to the right called HE BUIGGUM FUCKED 14a and did it in one fall....then the rain came and we had to run out. And drive home.....so there it is, the story of my Ten sleep experience.

No comments:

Post a Comment