He Biggum 13d
I havent wrote up in a bit but recently I jsut got back from part two of my Ten Sleep summer.
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| Galactic Emporor 14a |
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| He Biggum 13d |
For the past week and a half I spent my time (again) in Ten Sleep Canyon, Wyoming with my friend Cedar Wright. For the first 4 days of our trip we met up with Matt Segal and John Dickey but for this duration of the trip (the first 4 days) i managed to fall all over my project, He Biggum,(13d) making negative progress. So both Cedar and I were flailing on our projects, his being Hellion (13c) witch i did last trip, decided to make a change of pace and we went to bolt a climb. The climb that we bolted was in the same general area of both our projects witch means that we could inform people about it easily and in the end our climb got over 7 Ascents!!! We decided to name the climb Where's Wentworth, because previously on the trip i lost my dog Wentworth for 4 hours because he got scared of some fire works in the morning and climbed in to Matt Segals van. Then when we thought he was dead, Matt opened his van and......THERE WAS WENTWORTH!
F'd in the A 14a
Now back to the climb, the line we bolted was vertical on immaculate black stone for the first section witch involved five star movement off all kinds of holds such as knobs, pockets, crimps, slopers and slots. Then the climb went on for another 50 feet through less bullet stone but easier terrain. Boiling it all down the line rang in at around 12b. later when we finished bolting my psyche was still there but the drill battery was low so i decided to hop on my proj, He Biggum. I roped up and fell at the first bolt. lowered to the ground and pulled my way through to the top. Finally it was over...but the reason it was so hard was that every move was extremely low percentage, being that every move was a massive pull of no feet to a pocket. I was glad to be done with that project but eagar and ready for the next. But with no luck for the next few days i got on a continuous 14a called F'ed in the A, i managed to pull it off in two falls but this climb we unusually sharp so I decided to move my efforts to the immaculate stone of the French Cattle Ranch's ultra classic 13d called sky pilot.
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| Best 5.10 im America |
On my first effort i nearly got through the vicious v9 crux at the start then dogged my way to the top. On my next go I pulled hard all the way to the bitter end and ended up falling off the VERY LAST MOVE!!! Disappointed from falling off the top I restrained from trying it any more today, for we were to be headed back the next to let everyone try there FCR projects again. The next day when we went up a huge group of boulderites showed up and hiked up to the French cattle ranch with us. This group including Nellie, cedars fiance, my Dad, Matt Segal and John Dickey again and a bunch of others. When we arrived i warmed up and hoped of Sky pilot. To my astonishment, I pulled through the bouldery start and found my self clipping the chains of sky pilot but i brought up three extra draws just in case i wanted to try the extension with is Galactic Emperor (14a). And the momentum just kept pushing me to the send.
Then the trip was over, the drive home was long and boaring. Then life continues, without rock climbing. Untill the next weekend.
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